Deconstructed Designers- 30/09/22

MAISON MARGIELA

A French luxury brand founded in 1988 by Martin Margiela and Jenny Meirens, with John Galliano takeing over as creative designer in 2014. Margiela is most known for their deconstructive and avant-garde designs using unconventional materials.

I chose these images because these designs explore different levels of deconstruction, from deconstructing the entire base material to create something completely new, to working within the constraints of the original garment and unpicking seams to transform it into something new. These Margiela designs also explore deconstruction in different contexts, from everyday, functional pieces to more 'sartorial' boundary pushing looks.

This research was very beneficial to me because it led me to consider different ways and to what extent I wanted to deconstruct my own jacket, and whether I wanted my final design to be more functional or radical.

YOHJI YAMAMOTO

Yohji Yamamoto is a Japanese fashion designer who combines avant-garde tailoring and Japanese design aesthetics. He learned his fine tailoring skills from his mother, after leaving a legal career to assist her with her dressmaking business.

These looks from his Spring 21 ready-to-wear collection were particularly interesting to me because of the way he has used deconstruction to create complex, bold silhouettes. These monochrome designs feature many layers with fabric sticking out at sharp angles. This in combination with the all black fabric creates a punk, theatrical aesthetic. I love the way Yohji uses deconstruction in a more overt, stylistic way rather than using it to try and create another garment that already exists, and I think these exposed layers really engenders a rebellious, punk aesthetic while the tailoring still looks very elegant.

Research

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